Walking Tour of Kayamandi Township

Over ¼ of South Africa’s population, or 11 million people live in informal housing developments called townships. The houses are usually one room, made out of scrap metal and wood. The few houses that have concrete formal walls are homes that families have lived in for many generations and over the years they have saved enough money to make improvements. Townships have grocery stores called Cash Stores, small eateries where they serve one or two things they specialize in and a few pubs where they serve the local beer that they make from maize. There is a community bathroom with toilet stalls, showers and places to wash clothes. Many homes have electricity and dishes which connect them to the internet. The curbs were lined with litter but the middle of the streets were kept clean. The inside of the houses were also very clean.

Cash Store

As I followed my guide through the narrow passageways, he told me that Kayamandi started as just a few hostels. In the 1940s, the government built hostels for men to stay and come work in Stellenbosch. One 10 room building would hold up to 50 men and women were not allowed to visit. In the 1980s, the policy changed and women were allowed to visit and the population increased and eventually became a town of 40,000 people. In 1993 Apartheid ended and Blacks got their freedom.

A hostel built in the 40s where people still live today

Today, many people from Kayamandi still work in Stellenbosch and not many move away. We continue to walk and I point out a Audi and Mercedes Benz. Madiba, my guide, explains to me that the people really like material things and some are willing to buy a nice car rather than a house or save for college education. Everyone seems to know each other and Madiba greets many people by name as we walk. I kept asking myself should I be here. Do the people who live here think im disrespectful for visiting? Is the concept of a township as a tourist attraction creating more problems of institutional racism? I voiced my concern to Madiba and he said no. He explained that when he started doing tours in 2006, many people in Kayamandi did not like having whites in their town, thinking that, “the whites are trying to take our land.” He reassured me and that now the people do not mind and many embrace others coming in to learn about their village and what they have overcome.

We stopped and Madiba bought a drink similar to a Vitamin Water. He spoke in Xhosa and handed the shop keeper a 20 Rand equivalent to about $1. We started to walk and then passed a disabled boy who looked like he was 10 years old. He could not use his hands and had trouble speaking. Madiba immediately stopped and gave the drink he just purchased to the child. My eyes filled with tears, realizing in this short moment I witnessed the power of community.

the guide purchasing a drink through a window

Interesting Facts

• The main languages are Zulu, Xhosa and English. The younger generation all speak English.

• There are 3 primary schools and two high schools. Every student is required to wear a school uniform.

• All the stores have bars over the front and a window to order from. Before the end of Apartheid, Blacks could not go inside stores and only order through a window. The community still uses this concept today.

• A popular food item is goat head also called a smiley. The name comes from the way the head looks once you are done eating it.

• The number of weddings have rapidly decreased in the community because women want to be more independent and support themselves.

• When police are not around to help, the community takes care of problems. If anyone is caught stealing the punishment is a public whipping.

• After the end of Apartheid, Madiba said the biggest change was having the ability to be and do what you want.

Overall Impression

Coming from an affluent part of California, the amount of poverty was heart breaking. These people have so little yet they live just 3km from the wealthy wine growing town of Stellenbosch. The people were nice and smiled at me but most were somewhat distant. My guide encouraged me to take lots of pictures but it felt like taking pictures exploited them in some way. I was worried that they would think I wanted to take pictures of them because I saw them as different so I tried my best not to get peoples’ faces. The sense of a strong community was overwhelming and was my favorite part about Kayamandi. Everyone knew everybody and they looked out for each other. I encourage anyone who visits South Africa to go on a Township tour to learn about the history, what they have overcome and what obstacles still face them. Remember to be respectful and come in with an open heart.